Blissful Bora Bora

The first thing we saw when we sailed into Bora Bora was a huge rubbish tip by the main entrance which was not the most auspicious start to our stay here.  The first few nights were spent on a mooring ball at the Maikai Marina (dot in the photo) catching up with friends, getting groceries and using their internet.  From there we went to another mooring ball just across the harbor so we could go to dinner at Bloody Marys which I had read about when we had found out that we would be coming to French Polynesia, it was a lovely night with yummy cocktails.  After that we went to find our own space in anchoring.  Bora Bora is most notably famous because it has the largest lagoon in the world which means safe, calm waters surround the entire island. 

You would think that in a massive area like this there must be heaps of beautiful coral and snorkeling spots but unfortunately no.  As we have seen on our travels so far the majority of coral has died, a combination of the oceans warming up and human interference so when we come to some coral that is still alive and strong it is both exciting and sad that so little of it remains.

In Bora Bora we found and anchored by 3 fantastic snorkeling sites, we looked for others but as noted the coral was dead everywhere else we explored.

The first coral garden was in the main bay (x1)and we anchored a couple of nights next to it.  It was a popular dive/snorkel tourist boat destination so we ensured we jumped in the water when they had gone.  I got the fright of my life here when I was swimming over a rock and a huge moray eel started to come out and “grinned” at me.  It came all the way out and I was able to swim along with it for a while before it went into another hole. 

On the same snorkel I was taking photos of Craig and suddenly behind him I noticed a very large fish in the background just staying still and watching us.  Upon closer inspection it turned out to be a barracuda which we both guessed to be about 5 foot long.  It stayed in the distance but I managed to get a semi close up of it.  I can honestly say it is definitely a different feeling when we realise there are BIG fish in the water, once again I stayed close to Craig for the remainder of that snorkel.

Once we had a few days there we decided to explore the rest of the lagoon and headed up the side of the island stopping after about an hour.  We had seen on our Navionics that there was another good snorkel spot close by  (x2) so decided to explore that one.  Turned out to be a fantastic spot with very few other people around so we spent quite a few days there just snorkeling and enjoying being sans clothes for some of the time.

We then sailed around the top and down to the shallowest part we could on the back of the island.  It was spectacularly beautiful (x3) but unfortunately we couldn’t find any nice snorkeling so only stayed a couple of nights before deciding to head slightly back up where there was a noted site (x4)

On this side of Bora Bora are many Motus and on the majority of them can be found all the big resorts and over the water bungalows.  We had heard stories that most of these resorts did not like cruisers and did not welcome them at all, unlike other resorts at other islands which were more than happy for us to turn up and drink at their bars and eat at their restaurants, their loss.  We therefore didn’t try to go ashore at any of these Motus and spent all our time either on, in or under the water.

This latest anchorage was very sheltered and we spent quite a few days here.  Just across the bay really close was a very cool snorkeling and diving site and we spent a lot of time there.  Even though shallow snorkeling is fun I do enjoy some deep water stuff as well and something I have been doing is practicing holding my breath and seeing how far down I can go.  When I first started I could hold my breath for 30 seconds maximum and only go a few metres under the water.

Now I can hold my breath for 90 seconds and the deepest I have gone is around 10 metres.  My goal is to get to the 2 minute mark.

We decided it was time to start to slowly sail back around the island ensuring we stopped and spent a night at the coral gardens by the airport which we had thoroughly enjoyed the first time.

We are now back at the beginning, we will spend a few nights moored at the Marina catching up on emails, starting the entry paperwork for the Cook Islands and the departure paperwork for French Polynesia.  We need to update our weather readings and stock up on groceries then we are away.

We intend to visit Maupiti and Maupihaa which are two smaller islands on the way out of the Societies and then it’s our first big adventure of spending days at sea as we head towards Suwarrow in the Cook Islands.  We are both feeling nervous and excited about this upcoming challenge.  For now though it’s a relaxing few days where we can enjoy the marinas happy hours and swimming pool.

Bora Bora has been blissful mainly because we have spent the majority of time away from anyone else, it has been quiet, relaxing and the few coral gardens we have snorkeled in have been spectacular.