It was an easy few hours sail from Huahine to Raiatea, that is one of the appealing aspects of sailing through the Society Islands, apart from the overnight sail between Moorea and Huahine all other islands are within sight of each other and are simple day sails.
There are a few passes you can use to enter into the reef and we decided on the lowest down one so we could meander up the coast. The first night had us anchored next to amazing light blue water with a small motu (small island) just within dinghy distance. We visited that motu early the next morning but neither of us thought to bring shoes so could explore beyond the beach. From there we sailed towards the top of the island stopping once again when we found a nice little anchor beside a privately owned motu. We have quickly discovered that our favourite type of anchor is in approx. 2-4 metres of water, our keel is 1.8 metres which means we cant go any shallower than 2. Once we have dropped the anchor we dive on it to check that it has grabbed hold – sand is by far and away the best to drop onto. Once we have ascertained it has a hold we swim around the swing radius to ensure that when the boat moves side to side it wont hit anything under the water.
Our second anchor spot was fantastic with some very cool snorkeling within a 2 minute swim.
After a couple of nights there we headed back down the island as I had read about a river that is the only explorable river in all of French Polynesia, we had to go have a look at that. There was only a couple of other boats within the bay we headed too and when we went exploring we were the only people around for the entire time. Apart from the dinghy engine it was absolutely quiet and so beautiful.
Along the river bank we saw some bananas growing but unfortunately we hadn’t taken a knife with us so were unable to cut any down. The next day we headed towards Uturoa which is the second largest “town” in French Polynesia, it has two streets, three supermarkets, four banks and about fifteen other types of shops from jewellery to clothing to marine to knick knacks. We quickly found out the first time we went for a wander through this town that it was definitely laid back to the extent that the majority of the shops closed for a couple of hours in the middle of the day.
We had anchored in a beautiful lagoon which only downside was the entrance closest to the town was one metre deep, fine for catamarans and dinghy’s but not for a boat with a keel. We had to sail practically all the way to Ta’haa to another entry point that we could enter and once in sail back towards the town. Once again there was some nice snorkeling around the boat exploring different coral heads. Early one morning we hiked up the hill behind the town which was very much like the bridal path. At the top was some fantastic views of the lagoon and islands including Huahine, Ta’haa and Bora Bora – spectacular and definitely worth sweating up the hill for.
Late on Saturday we realised we had run out of fresh water so the decision was made that on Sunday we would leave. We had to once again sail up towards Ta’haa and out the way we come in then we headed back towards Uturoa to the service station. I got the ropes and buoys ready and Craig steered us in, I leaped off the boat and was able to quickly tie us up – I was quite proud of us, no one would have guessed it was our first time doing this. We filled up on diesel and for CXP1000 (NZD $12.50) we could fill the boat up with fresh water – great value for 1000Litres. It takes a really long time to fill up that many litres with a garden hose!!!! Once we had everything Craig started the engines, I cast us off and jumped on board, we will admit it wasn’t as smooth leaving as we would have liked (had to go back and forwards a few times and I was moving the buoys around to ensure the boat wouldn’t hit the dock) but we got there.
A nice easy sail up to Ta’haa where we have tucked in behind a slightly larger motu along with a few other boats in 2.5metres of crystal blue water and some stunning snorkeling. I must have spent about 3 hours in the water the first afternoon just looking at all the different type of fishes. We will be here for a while before exploring the other side of the island then its off to Bora Bora, our last stop before leaving these islands.
BITS and BOBS
Other boats
So far in our travels the majority of boats we have seen would be catamarans and the majority of those are charter. Nationalities have been mainly French then American. We have seen two Australian boats (owned) and so far no New Zealanders. I have been amazed at how many boats are sailing with families on board. Whether it’s the decision of the parents to go sailing as a family for a couple of years or in a couple of cases where they sail for part of the year and fly back home for the other part, I do admit to envying the kids for the fantastic opportunities and lifestyles they are leading. Mind you I only envy the kids, definitely not the parents, who have to home school the kids, feed them, at times entertain them all in a very small space. In one case I saw a 32 foot mono hull with 2 parents and 4 kids on it, sheez not my cup of tea but go them.
Small Spaces
Sailing through paradise does certainly sound amazing and it is however with everything there are those aspects that have you going hmmmm. On a boat everything is smaller (obviously) than a house. We have quickly gotten use to working within the kitchen perfecting one pot cooking. We both however do carry bruises and marks from walking into things. In a house you don’t think twice about walking through a door, its nice and wide and its not moving; not on a boat.
Registration
One great piece of news is we are now registered. What seems like a simple online task takes on another flavour when you are overseas, have intermittent internet and do most of your emails on a cellphone. Despite some to-ing and fro-ing we managed to get it done and we are now a NZ registered boat, excellent news.
😳 Wow. . . you are certainly ‘living the dream’ Aaron . . . very envious, but can live mine through you! Keep the fabulous posts and photos coming!